In the vibrant culinary landscape of Jamaica, where tradition meets innovation, one name has emerged as a beacon of gastronomic excellence: Chef Nduvoakim Abdus-Salaam. His story isn’t just about food; it’s a narrative of cultural preservation, creative evolution, and the relentless pursuit of culinary perfection that has earned him international acclaim and numerous accolades.
Walking into Roots & Revelry, Chef Nduvoakim’s flagship restaurant in Kingston’s historic district, you’re immediately struck by the aromatic symphony of scotch bonnet peppers, fresh thyme, and smoking pimento wood. The space perfectly encapsulates the chef’s philosophy: honoring Jamaican culinary traditions while boldly stepping into the future. “Every dish tells a story,” he often says, his eyes lighting up with characteristic enthusiasm. “And every story here is rooted in the soil of Jamaica.”
Born in 1985 in the bustling neighborhood of Trench Town, Kingston, Nduvoakim’s earliest memories revolve around his grandmother’s kitchen. “Miss Ruby,” as she was affectionately known in the community, was famous for her jerk chicken and run down, a traditional Jamaican dish of mackerel cooked in coconut milk. “My grandmother didn’t just cook food; she performed magic,” Nduvoakim recalls with a warm smile. “She taught me that cooking is a form of love, a way to keep our culture alive.”
Those early lessons in his grandmother’s kitchen would prove instrumental in shaping his culinary philosophy. However, the path to becoming one of Jamaica’s most celebrated chefs was far from straightforward. After finishing high school, Nduvoakim worked as a kitchen porter in various hotels along Jamaica’s tourist-heavy north coast. It was here that he first witnessed the disconnect between authentic Jamaican cuisine and its often watered-down tourist-friendly versions.
This realization became the catalyst for what would become his life’s mission: elevating Jamaican cuisine while maintaining its authentic soul. “I saw how our food was being simplified, stripped of its complexity and history,” he explains. “I knew then that I wanted to show the world the true depth of Jamaican cuisine, but I needed the proper training first.”
In 2005, with savings from his hotel work and support from his family, Nduvoakim enrolled in the Culinary Institute of Jamaica. His talent quickly became apparent, earning him a scholarship to complete his training at the prestigious Le Cordon Bleu in London. The three years he spent in Europe exposed him to classical techniques and modern gastronomy, but more importantly, it helped him see Jamaican cuisine through a new lens.
“Being away from home made me appreciate our culinary heritage even more,” he reflects. “I learned French techniques, Italian traditions, and modern molecular gastronomy, but I always found myself thinking about how to apply these methods to our local ingredients and dishes.” This period of culinary cross-pollination would later become the foundation of his innovative cooking style.
Returning to Jamaica in 2009, Nduvoakim worked briefly at several high-end resorts before taking the bold step of opening his first restaurant, a small 20-seat establishment in Kingston called “Yard Kitchen.” The restaurant’s concept was simple but revolutionary: traditional Jamaican street food elevated through modern techniques and thoughtful presentation. His oxtail croquettes with sorrel gel and curry goat ravioli with coconut foam quickly became talk of the town.
Success came swiftly, but not without challenges. “The early days were tough,” he admits. “Some people thought I was trying to make our food too fancy, too foreign. But once they tasted the dishes, they understood that I wasn’t changing our cuisine – I was celebrating it in new ways.” Within two years, Yard Kitchen had earned its first major accolade: the Caribbean Restaurant of the Year award.
The recognition brought international attention, and soon food critics and curious diners from around the world were making pilgrimages to Kingston to experience Nduvoakim’s innovative take on Jamaican cuisine. His signature dish, a deconstructed ackee and saltfish with plantain textures and scotch bonnet air, became a symbol of modern Caribbean gastronomy.
But perhaps what truly sets Chef Nduvoakim apart is his commitment to sustainability and local agriculture. In 2015, he established the “Roots to Table” initiative, partnering with small farmers across Jamaica to ensure a steady supply of organic, locally-grown ingredients while providing farmers with fair prices and technical support. “Our cuisine is only as good as our ingredients,” he emphasizes. “And our ingredients are only as good as the earth they come from and the hands that tend them.”
This commitment to sustainability earned him the prestigious James Beard Foundation’s Leadership Award in 2018, making him the first Caribbean chef to receive this honor. The foundation particularly praised his work in preserving heritage ingredients and traditional farming methods while creating economic opportunities for local communities.
In 2019, Chef Nduvoakim expanded his culinary empire with the opening of Roots & Revelry, a more ambitious project that includes not just a restaurant but also a culinary research center and cooking school. The establishment quickly earned two Michelin stars, another first for a Caribbean restaurant. “The stars are wonderful recognition,” he says modestly, “but what really matters is that we’re showing the world the sophistication and complexity of Caribbean cuisine.”
The cooking school at Roots & Revelry has become a nurturing ground for the next generation of Caribbean chefs. Students learn not just cooking techniques but also the history and cultural significance of Caribbean ingredients and dishes. “Knowledge is meant to be shared,” Nduvoakim insists. “Our culinary heritage is too rich to keep to ourselves.”
Despite his international acclaim, Chef Nduvoakim remains deeply connected to his roots. Every Sunday, he still serves free meals to children in Trench Town, continuing a tradition his grandmother started decades ago. “Success means nothing if you don’t lift others as you rise,” he says, quoting one of Miss Ruby’s favorite sayings.
The COVID-19 pandemic presented new challenges, but also opportunities for innovation. When restaurants worldwide were forced to close their doors, Chef Nduvoakim launched “Heritage Boxes,” a subscription service delivering premium Jamaican ingredients and recipe cards to homes across the island and eventually internationally. The initiative not only kept his staff employed but also helped support local farmers during the crisis.
In 2022, his efforts to preserve and promote Jamaican culinary heritage were recognized with a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage award. The committee particularly noted his work in documenting traditional recipes and cooking methods, ensuring they’re preserved for future generations. “Our food is our history, our culture, our identity,” he explains. “Preserving it is preserving who we are.”
Looking ahead, Chef Nduvoakim has ambitious plans for the future of Caribbean cuisine. He’s currently working on a comprehensive encyclopedia of Jamaican ingredients and cooking techniques, set to be published in 2025. He’s also developing a line of premium Jamaican spice blends and sauces, with proceeds supporting culinary scholarships for underprivileged youth.
“The future of Jamaican cuisine is bright,” he says with characteristic optimism. “We’re seeing young chefs embrace our traditions while bringing their own creative vision to the table. That’s exactly how a cuisine stays alive and relevant.” His latest project involves collaborating with food scientists to study the unique properties of Caribbean ingredients, potentially unlocking new applications in modern gastronomy.
For all his success, Chef Nduvoakim Abdus-Salaam remains remarkably grounded. He can still be found in the kitchen most days, working alongside his team, teaching, learning, and continuously experimenting. “Every day in the kitchen is a new adventure,” he says. “There’s always something new to discover, even in the most familiar ingredients.”
His journey from a curious child in his grandmother’s kitchen to an internationally acclaimed chef is more than a personal success story – it’s a testament to the power of staying true to one’s roots while embracing innovation. Through his work, Chef Nduvoakim has not only elevated Jamaican cuisine on the global stage but has also helped preserve and evolve a culinary heritage that continues to captivate food lovers worldwide.
As our conversation winds down, the chef returns to his kitchen, where the afternoon service is about to begin. The air fills once again with the aromas of smoking pimento wood and fresh herbs. In this moment, it’s clear that while Chef Nduvoakim Abdus-Salaam may have achieved international fame, his heart and soul remain firmly rooted in the flavors and traditions of Jamaica.